It’s the last day of our DIY Wedding month, and tomorrow we move into Photography & Design. This little piece from Leandra’s wedding is the perfect crossover. Obie and Leandra have an epic love story, that just had to be told. So with clever storytelling and the use of Suitcase Fusion (a veritable library of fonts) we created the most wonderful save-the-dates! While it’s a bit visually complex, the different fonts work well to give their words a voice. Just try to read this and not get choked up! I dare you!
Comment on A Typographic Save the Date by Erika
Comment on LED vacuum tube mod by sa
Gareth Branwyn is a freelancer writer and the former Editorial Director of Maker Media. He is the author or editor of a dozen books on technology, DIY, and geek culture, including the first book about the web (Mosaic Quick Tour) and the Absolute Beginner’s Guide to Building Robots. He is currently working on a best-of collection of his writing, called Borg Like Me.
Comment on How To – Use an LCD with Arduino by Heather
Born, drew a lot, made video, made music on 4-track, then computer, more songwriting, met future wife, went to art school for video major, made websites, toured in a band, worked as web media tech, discovered electronics, taught myself electronics, blogged about DIY electronics, made web videos about electronics and made music for them … and I still do!
Comment on Wooden cellphone case mod will give you splinters by tyn
This cellphone case mod sheds the phone’s usual plastic exterior and replaces it with wood for a more angular and natural look.
CellPhone Case Mod
Comment on Stop-Motion History of Typography by Fat Man With Inky Fingers
Canadian graphic designer and animator Ben Barrett-Forrest has created an enchanting and informative paper-letter animation about the history of fonts and typography. In total, Ben used 291 paper letters, took 2,454 photographs, and put in 140 hours of work to create this 5-minute history that takes us from blackletter to pixel type and custom scripts.
Comment on Peanut Butter Jar Vacuum Former by Mac Fleetwood
Plastic vacuum formers are an important part of the prototyping process. If you need a nice plastic robot body or custom case for a project you are doing, get your tools, ’cause this project is easy to build and fun to play with.
Vacuum formers are based on a simple concept. They use the power of a vacuum to suck heated, gooey plastic sheets very tightly around an object you place in them, making a 3D copy of pretty much whatever you want.
Plastic vacuum formers are usually big, expensive machines, however many of us don’t always need to make huge pieces for our projects, so these machines would be pointless to have—or at least that’s what I tell myself so I won’t be tempted to buy one. Our vacuum molder will be a good size for most projects you’re likely to deal with.
Adam Harris is a graduate student in the field of electrical engineering. He is also a freelance writer, musician, co-owner of SheekGeek LLC, and all-around hacker.
Comment on Home Plastic Injection Molding by Plastic Injection Molding
My interests include writing, electronics, RPGs, comics, scifi, hackers & hackerspaces, 3D printing, building sets, & toys.
Comment on Flashback: Sew Comfy Natural Cushions for Wooden Chairs by Holly Smith
By Brookelynn Morris
I have a tiny little home in the woods. It’s filled with entirely hand-me-down furniture and thrift store finds. I have a “green” lifestyle, but mostly because it’s a modest lifestyle. I believe my crafty attitude has been my greatest asset in styling my house with beautiful and affordable accessories. And in turn, sewing is perhaps the most crucial and versatile skill for bringing custom style and comfort to your home.
With simple sewing, anyone can quickly transform the most plain wooden seating into comfortable, custom, organic pieces of furniture. By sewing projects from scratch, you, as the designer, have complete control over the quality of materials. I made these cushions with amazing organic home decor fabric from Amenity. They sent me their to-die-for organic canvas, and then I picked up bamboo fiber stuffing and 100% cotton thread. The project is easy, pretty, and exactly the kind of thing that I want in my house!
Materials:
Chair
1 yard of fabric
1 yard of ribbon
Sewing Machine
Cotton thread
Fiber Stuffing
Large sheet of paper
Pen
Pins
*I was able to make cushions for 2 of my chairs with just 1 yard of material. Your size may vary.
Step 1: Lay the paper onto the seat of the chair. Press it down and trace around the perimeter of the seat shape with the pen.
Step 2: Cut out the paper pattern, and then fold it down the center. Trim the pattern so that it is centered and symmetrical.
Step 3: Lay your fabric out on the table and pin the pattern to it. Cut out 2 pieces, one for the front, and one for the back.
Step 4: Pin the two pattern pieces together, right sides facing in. Stitch them together using the straight stitch, but don’t sew them all the way closed. Leave the cushion open at the back where it will tie to the chair.
Step 5: Turn the cushion right side out through the opening that you left. Then, fill it with stuffing. Be generous with the stuffing, but resist the urge to over fill it!
Step 6: Cut two lengths of ribbon, 1' each. Set the cushion on the chair, and determine where the ties will need to be attached. Fold the ribbon in half, and pin it to the inside of the bottom of the cushion.
Step 7: Tack the ribbons into place with the sewing machine.
Step 8: Close the cushion by folding the edges in on themselves, and pinning the folded seams together. Make sure the ribbons are fed through the folded opening, and then sew it shut.
Step 9: Tie it to the chair, and voila!
Comment on Festo iFab in action by raspberry pi alternatives
My interests include writing, electronics, RPGs, comics, scifi, hackers & hackerspaces, 3D printing, building sets, & toys.
Comment on Search by MAKE | RobotGrrl Offering Tentacle Bot Kits
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Comment on CNC Mini Mill Conversion Kit (hardware) by cedrick
What do you do when you want a CNC machine, but don't have the room or the funds for a huge Professional machine build your custom components? I found myself in the same dilemma, I therefore chose to move to the bottom of my purchase and invest in a manual mill that I could possibly convert it into a CNC machine.
Before buying my 2 X Mini mill of the LittleMachineShop.com I have some research to investigate on what it would take to make the switch to a manual mill 3 full axis numerically controlled milling machine computer. These small amateur plants are manufactured in China and Taiwan and then shipped to companies like Harbor Freight, grizzly bear and the Micro-Mark which paint them different colors and sell them under different names. Since the Foundation of basic is all the same, a small community has formed around this platform mini mill people share ideas and hacks. When opting to convert CNC, there are many kits and models of conversion to the choice. These options range from simple PDF files with diagrams and schematics of bundles of hardware and precision electronics.
Fusion CNC is a small company that machines high quality conversion elements in 6061 aluminum stock. The company began in 2004 when Michael Rodgers, a machinist by trade, wanted to build a CNC machine, but realized that he could not build parts without first owning a CNC machine, he designed.
This initial desire led Michael to design and manufacture for small steel mills manual and lathes CNC conversion kits, and now her kits are sold around the world (40% of Fusion CNC production is shipped to overseas customers). The domestic garage has been converted into a machine shop where Michael the majority of parts machines using a huge five-axis CNC mill wife Sharron runs the massive numerical control lathe to machine the ends the threads of screw ball sold with their kits.
2 X Mini Mill kit is the most popular Fusion CNC, mainly because the mini mill platform is regarded as an excellent tool for a modest price for lovers. With the X 2 Mini - Mill CNC kit #2 all new parts leveling bolt to existing features and you replace the screw's lead from the factory with high-precision ball screw and new adapters of motor mount to accept NEMA 23 engines. The hardware installation is very simple and requires disassembly of the axes X and Y before you reinstall ball screws. You also need to drill two holes in the center column of the mill to install z-axis ball screw hardware. In addition to this step, the entire process is completely reversible, in the case you decide to return to manual machining (but honestly, why would you?).
I'll give you the steps to configure electrical components and software required in another tutorial. This project will cover only the conversion of physical hardware.
Comment on turn off the Internet with the flick of a switch by Isabelle
If you worry about snoops sneaky sniff packets on your network or you simply need to take a break from online courses, turn off the web with this Internet Kill Switch. With the help of this easy beginner weekend project you can keep all your devices plugged in and turned on, while the switch interrupts the flow of packets to your network time reversed in the OFF position.
We'll show you how to wire a box of mounting surface 2 ports in a different way than its destination. In this configuration, both ports act as a degree of transmission, so goes into a data port comes out the other. Between the two ports, we will mount a switch SPST or SPDT, allowing uninterrupted data flow when the switch is turned ON. But with a flick of the switch, you can easily turn off the internet for a single computer or your local network home about.
A few light of soldering is required, but you can easily build this project in an hour or two. Make the speaker as simple or dramatic as you want using any SPST or SPDT switch. If you customize your kill switch, disguise to blend in with your other network devices or add your own talent to build remember to send us a story about your process as well as a few photos.
I am an artist & maker. A biblioholic life and a lawyer for all things geekathon. The House is of Long Island City, Queens, which I consider to be the best place on Earth. 5 years old reside of Flux Factory, co-organizer of world Maker do (NYC) and blogger on the net. Howdy!
Comment on How-To: Molded Plywood Furniture by Inspired by Design 1 – Herman Miller « OSC IB Blogs
Detailed, hands-on how-to info on a very rich manufacturing process that is rarely attempted by DIYers. Instructables user pseaton covers the process of designing and building your own molded plywood forms all the way from initial design considerations, through mold construction and veneer pre-treatment, to actually laying up the veneers and cleaning up the finished form. Very cool stuff, especially if you’ve got access to a CNC router that can accelerate construction of the mold parts.
Bent Plywood Night Stands
More:
I am descended from 5,000 generations of tool-using primates. Also, I went to college and stuff. I write for MAKE, serve as Technical Editor for MAKE magazine, and develop original DIY content for Make: Projects.
Comment on 3D Printing an Aston Martin by index
Interview by Yahea Abdulla
We recently heard about a Solidoodler in Auckland, New Zealand, named Ivan Sentch, who’s building an entire car from scratch with the help of his Solidoodle, 2nd Gen 3D printer. When we saw photos of his project in progress, it was a bit hard to believe that this was his first time using 3D printing or that anyone would undertake something so massive with a desktop 3D printer. Leave it to one of our users to baffle our minds. We’re not sure if it’s insane, brilliant or both, but it’s certainly impressive.
Ivan was gracious enough to answer our questions regarding his project via email. We’ve posted his responses in a Q&A format below. You can also find more pics of what he’s completed so far at the bottom of the page.
Q: How long have you been 3D printing?
A: Since January this year.
Q: What do family and friends think about this?
A: My brothers think I’m mad but, after the last one I did, at least they believe I will pull it off. Friends either don’t grasp the enormity of the project, or the ones that do are in awe of me even attempting it.
Q: Did you learn on a Solidoodle or do you have previous experience 3D printing?
A: No previous experience–not even remotely related. The printer arrived around about Christmas and I’ve been learning from scratch since then.
Q: I saw on your blog that you mentioned this is not your first replica. Did you use a mold for your previous car as well? Any 3D printing there?
A: No, the last one was more a kit car than a replica, i.e., it was a kit someone made to go over an exiting donor car, relatively simple compared to this project in which I will need to make both the body and chassis myself.
Q: You’re certainly not a novice, looking at your work. What’s your professional background? Do you use design and 3D printing in your professional life?
A: No, I’m an absolute noob, but I learn quickly — I’m a programmer (well, I now manage a small team of programmers but I still rather be doing the programming work … but I’ve been exposed to CAD since school age and I’ve been using it at a hobby level for the last 15 years but rarely 3D models and never at this level of complexity.
Q: This is one of the largest projects we’ve seen using a desktop 3D printer. Is this an extreme hobby or professional project? What’s your motivation?
A: The project has been on my mind for the last 6 years, I would have started it earlier but I’ve recently had kids (3 years and 1 year) so I had to put these sort of time-consuming project-type hobbies on hold. But in saying that, the printing itself isn’t very time-consuming (click a few buttons to kick one off before I go to work and another one off before I go to bed) and preparing the next prints only takes a couple of hours a week–it’s just really the sanding of the printed parts before I glue them together that is time-consuming (and dreadfully boring).
This sort of project is not uncommon, but people usually use get the plug CNC-cut out of foam. I was told to expect $12K to $15K NZD for a CNC-cut plug, which nearly killed the project idea but, somehow, I had the thought to look into 3D printing as an alternative and, after researching it, it was only going to cost me $2K in plastic and the cost of the printer, which I can use for other things like making a replica dash and what not.
Also, with printing, I could do the doors, bonnet, boot, dash as separate plugs, which will make a better (or at least easier) body shell.
Q: What 3D printing and design software did you use for CAD, slicing, printing, etc.?
A: I’m using Autodesk 3DS Max for the slicing, I used AllyCad (just a free simple CAD program) to print out the MDF shapes on paper, it was just easier with this than with 3DS Max.
Q: How many prints on your SD2 will it take once your entire plug is complete to make a mold from?
A: The prints are for a plug from which I’ll take a mold (using fiberglass), so the total prints for the plug is about 500 times, each containing on average of five 100 mm x 100 mm sections.
Q: I see you actually started on Dec. 25, 2012. How far along are you on completing the plug to date? You document it very nicely in your blog updates.
A: I’ve only 28% of the body left to print and the dash. I like to measure progress in m², all up there is 18.5m² to print (boot: 1m², bonnet: 1.5m², door 1.5m² (x2), dash: 2m² and the body: 11m², a 1kg spool does 0.26m² and I use 2x of these a week on average. So I’ve printed 13.42 m² all up so far.
I should point out that is just the printing, there will me endless months of work once it’s all assembled before I can take a mold (applying auto filler, sanding, repeat until it’s all true then sanding from 400 to 600 to 1000 grit sand paper until it has a glassy finish then applying mold prep and sanding with 1000 again).
Q: Anything on 3D printing or this project you’d like me to mention?
A: A common question I get asked is why I chose a normal Aston Martin DB4 over the more famous DB5 or the more famous and valuable DB4 Zagato (or any number of possibilities for that matter). I like old cars but most of the ones I like were just 2-seaters and, now with the kids, I just can’t use it (my GTO kit hardly gets used any more). So I went with an old Aston Martin (2+2 seats) because they are just very, very cool, and a DB4 because I just like the look of it more … But I will be going for the GT lightweight look (no bumpers).
Q: Tricks of the trade?
A: I’ve found the best printing method (at least for the tall skinny prints like mine) is to lay a heat strengthened glass sheet above the bed and Kapton tape on top of that and hair spray. The Kapton tape sticks better to glass than to the aluminum and the Kapton tape + hair spray sticks the prints down to the bed 99.9% of the time. I’ve found 95 deg (Celsius) is the best temperature for the bed.
We’ve posted more pics from his project below. Thanks to Ivan Sentch for sharing his project with us. You can find more info on Ivan’s replica project with pictures and updates at his blog: replicadb4.com.
Reblogged with permission from Solidoodle.
Yahea Abdulla manages public relations at Solidoodle, a Brooklyn, NY-based 3D printer company. His favorite part of the job is learning about the amazing ways customers are using 3D printing. His greatest 3D-printing achievement is the coaster on his desk.
I’m the assistant editor at MAKE and CRAFT. I like hiking, biking, and etymology.
Comment on Little Big Lamp by pravin vairar
The most popular item I ever built for MAKE just happened to be the simplest: an LED desk lamp. This was in Volume 08, in 2006, when white LEDs were a hot new product. The most powerful ones I could find were 1cm in diameter, rated to deliver 100,000mcd (millicandle). The light wasn’t exactly white — it had a freaky purplish hue. But I liked the weird color, because it showed we were early adopters of cutting-edge illumination!
Recently I started wondering if I could downsize and upgrade the original lamp. So I took a fresh look at those traditional, through-hole, single-component LED “indicators” (as they are properly known).
The 5mm ones are now a lot more powerful than the 1cm type I used in the past. Some of them, known as “5-chip,” have 5 light-emitting elements squeezed into one 5mm package, sucking down 100mA of forward current at around 3.3V DC.
They’re still rated at 100,000mcd, but 6 years ago, the ones I used were rated for only 20° of beam spread. Today’s 5-chip LEDs claim a spread of 60°. Does that mean they’re 3 times as bright? No, they should be 9 times as bright, because the light is delivered over a two-dimensional area!
Since I used 72 of the big old ones, and the new ones should be 9 times as bright, I would only need 8 to get the same illumination. But why not go for greater output?
Here we’ll use the traditional-style 5mm LEDs. RadioShack, for instance, offers them as part #276-017. Since they use exactly the same 3.3V DC as the 5-chip variety, you can substitute either in this project without changing the circuit.
Fabrication Choices
I opted for a 12V DC power supply, to make the lamp function in motor homes, where LEDs are ideal to conserve power. For use with 115V AC, you need an adapter that delivers 12V DC at 1 amp. Here we’ll use RadioShack part #273-358.
Instead of adding a series resistor with each LED, the most efficient way to power them from 12V DC is by series-wiring them in threes. This means you need 10V DC for each set. How to get 10V from 12V power? Pulse-width modulation is the way to go. You send a stream of pulses, too rapid for the eye to see, and vary the gaps between them to limit the average current. If you add a potentiometer, this can act as a dimmer. Only a few electronic parts are needed, and they’re listed in the materials and specified in Step 5.
Note that if you use old-style low-power LEDs, your AC adapter can be down-rated to 300mA, which should cost less.
How to build the actual lamp? I decided to use PVC plumbing supplies. For the additional pieces that would hold everything together, I chose 1/8? white ABS plastic, but you can use plywood if you prefer.
Comment on Internet Kill Switch by sa
The advent of the always-on internet connection has transformed modern computing. While you’re away from the keyboard, your software can automatically update itself, fixing bugs and patching security flaws. Or automatically back up data from your hard drive to a remote server so that, in the event of disaster, you still have a record of even your most recent work. Distributed computing applications like SETI@home and Folding@home allow you to contribute your computer’s processing power, while you’re not using it, to solving computation-intensive problems like identifying extraterrestrial transmissions and understanding complex biomolecules. There’s all kinds of good stuff your computer can do with that internet connection, while you’re away.
It can also, of course, get into lots of trouble. Backdoors, bot-nets, spyware—the list goes on. And while the good guys may allow you to configure their off-hours internet usage in software, and will probably respect your choices, the bad guys won’t.
If you want to be double-dog sure, here’s a simple, fool-proof answer: a hardware kill switch. Put one on the wired connection between your computer and router and use it to unambiguously isolate that computer from the internet whenever you want. Or put it between your router (wireless or otherwise) and your ISP hardware to control the connection for the entire house. Sure, you could just unplug the cable, but that’s hard on the connectors, and the switch is faster to use and neater-looking, to boot.
And it couldn’t be much easier to build. We’ll show you how to build an unobtrusive basic Internet Kill Switch, and then an over-the-top “dramatic version” that’s a bit more fun to make and use.
I am descended from 5,000 generations of tool-using primates. Also, I went to college and stuff. I write for MAKE, serve as Technical Editor for MAKE magazine, and develop original DIY content for Make: Projects.
Comment on DIY-ing the Emmys: The Bow Tie and Pocket Square by Caroline
By Haley Pierson-Cox
Black tie is all about the details. Once you’ve gotten the tux and shoes sorted out, if you’re really planning to get your dapper on, you’d better make darn sure that your bow tie and pocket square are up to snuff. So, when my husband Jeremy was nominated for an Emmy this year, he asked me to make just one thing: a custom fixed-size bow tie to go with the hand-sewn pocket square that I made for him last year.
Before I got started, I wanted to make sure that I understood the ins and outs of bow tie etiquette, so I read up on bow tie history, shapes and proper fitting on The Black Tie Guide. There, I learned the key to making a good bow tie: no matter if you’re wearing a pre-tied, self-tie, fixed size, or adjustable tie, the bow must be proportional to the face of the person wearing it. This information is so important that it bears repeating: if your bow is too large, you’ll look like you’re playing dress-up in your dad’s suit; if it’s too small, you’ll look like you stole your little brother’s Sunday school outfit. Neither of these are a good look. Jeremy isn’t a large man, so I went with a modern, yet traditional bow style, and settled on the classic semi-butterfly shape (also known as the modern butterfly or the thistle). To make it easier for you to get the right sized bow, I included patterns for both standard and small (adult) bow sizes in the PDF below. Small would also work for bow tie-loving ladies!
After you make the bow tie, don’t forget to scroll down to the hand-sewn pocket square instructions to finish off your look!
1/2 yard of black satin fabric, or any fabric you’d like, if it’s not a black tie occasion
1/2 yard of lightweight fusible interfacing
Bow tie pattern, download the PDF below
Fabric scissors
Iron
Pins
Black thread
Sewing machine
Chopstick
Tailor’s chalk
Print out the bow tie pattern (link to the bow tie pattern PDF above) and cut out the bow and the neck band pieces. The size of the bow in the bow tie should be in proportion to the size of the face of the person wearing it, so I included two adult pattern sizes: standard and small. A 1/4? seam allowance is included on each pattern.
To size your pattern, measure around the collar of a well-fitting shirt, and divide that number by two. Cut the neck band to size using the number you just calculated as the length. Tape the neck band piece to the bow to create your personalized pattern.
Step 1: Fold the fabric in half with right sides facing, and cut the pattern out twice, creating 4 total fabric pieces. Also cut 4 pieces of interfacing.
Step 2: With an iron, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of each piece of fabric.
Step 3: With right sides facing (interfacing facing out), pin two bow tie pieces together, repeating the process for the remaining set.
Step 4: With a 1/4? seam allowance, sew around the edges of each set, leaving the ends of the neck straps open. Once the pieces are sewn, trim the extra fabric around the edges, close to the seam.
Step 5: Carefully turn each side of the bow tie right-side out through the opening in the neck strap. The neck strap hole is small, so this step can take a little while. Use a chopstick to turn out the corners of the bow tie when you’re finished.
Step 6: Press each side of the bow tie flat.
Step 7: Mark the 1/4? seam allowance at the end of each side of the bow tie with tailor’s chalk, and snip off the corners with fabric scissors.
Step 8: At the mark you made in step 7, fold the fabric on the open end of the neck strap on one half of the bow tie towards the inside, then press the crease. Insert the end of the neck strap from the second bow tie half into the first, lining up the seam allowance mark with the edge of the fold.
Step 9: Sew a straight line along the fold, connecting the two sides of the bow tie, then press flat to finish.
If you don’t know how to tie a bow tie, I found this YouTube video from the Columbia Metropolitan Convention & Visitors Bureau to be extremely helpful.
Pocket squares are traditionally made of linen or silk and have a hand-sewn rolled hem. There are many different ways to fold a pocket square, but I always stick with the flat fold – it’s the easiest to master and my hand stitching will stay visible!
1/4 yard of white linen, silk can also be used
Iron
Ruler
Tailor’s chalk or fabric pen
Rotary cutter or fabric scissors
Hand sewing needle
White thread
Step 1: Square the grain and iron the linen. Generally this goes without saying, but it’s particularly important when using sheer fabric.
Step 2: Measure, mark, and cut a 12? x 12? square.
Step 3: Create a rolled hem around the edges of the square: Start to roll the fabric over, inserting the needle under the roll, through the back of the square. Pull the needle and thread all the way through to the front, then sew a small straight stitch over the rolled fabric across the front, pulling the needle and thread through the back of the pocket square to finish the stitch. The stitches should be small enough to fit 8 to 10 stitches per inch.
Where rolled hems are concerned, it’s much easier to show than tell. Check out the diagram above to see the progression of the stitches.
Step 4: Continue to roll and stitch around the perimeter of the square. When you reach a corner, twist the two sides together and continue stitching per normal. Depending on how well the fabric cooperates, you may need to improvise a stitch under the fabric in the corners to maintain the right shape. When you’re finished, press the square, taking care not to flatten the hem.
You’re done. Now, get out there and party like you’re Don Draper!
About the Author
Haley Pierson-Cox is a Brooklyn-based craft writer who loves granny glasses and loathes extraneous apostrophes. She blogs about crafts, cats, domestic bliss, and DIY goodness at The Zen of Making.